Wine: The slow burn of Mon Tout

Some wines have a party personality that demands the limelight, others, like the Mon Tout range, are chill, slow burners with warm personalities and a lightness of touch. There are no heroes here, just lo-fi, drink-early deliciousness, from the experimental arm of the Howard Park stable.

Mon Tout 2023 Heydays Chardonnay, Pemberton, $29.99

Unfiltered and hazy in the glass, with subtle chardonnay characteristics — think cool-climate pear and grapefruit, with graphite and wet terracotta aromatics from the vessels in which the wine was fermented (old oak and ceramic egg). It’s all very slurpable and feather-light for a WA chardonnay, which some might see as less serious, yet its balanced, subtle layers of complexity and easygoing freshness, make for thoroughly pleasurable drinking. Don’t overthink it, drink it. 91/100

Mon Tout 2023 Strange Love Dry Rosé, Multi-regional, WA $29.99

Far from typical rosé — in its looks and production method, but when tasted, its clean, vibrant flavours and fine, dry textures, make it stand out from many simple rosés on the market. Whole-bunch pressed Swan Valley grenache, skin-fermented Manjimup pinot gris and pinot noir from two separate sites, provide for a complicated winemaking process, making a mockery of the term minimal intervention. (Minimal ‘adds’ might be more appropriate). The result is fragrant, with lemon blossom and mandarin zest, subtle pepper, with a redcurrant and raspberry pop of flavour. The finish is slightly salty and dry. Best enjoyed by itself or with light savoury dishes. 90/100

Mon Tout 2023 Kind Animals, Multi-regional, WA, $29.99

A light red blend, with charm, juiciness and a nouveau feel. Swan Valley grenache, Frankland River syrah and Mount Barker pinot noir have been cleverly blended with a market in mind, rather than an expression of terroir. The impressive result is a finessed red with a bright personality. Wild strawberries, rose petals and red cherry flavours tantalise at first and evolve into a dry, more savoury finish evoking crushed autumn leaves and the appealing subtle dry texture of goji berries. Straddles fruitiness and savouriness with aplomb. 92/100