Smashed Gero (on toast): Seaspray Cafe review

In search of a breathtaking breakfast, we drove a little further out this weekend to Dongara’s Seaspray Cafe. The gloomy grey weather made the tiny building look dull from the outside. But once we opened the glass sliding door, we were welcomed by delicious smells, boisterous people and cheery coloured plants. The cafe could not muster dull if it hosted an accounting conference. At one stage, the owner came out to give a table of kids some marshmallows. When a table of adults asked for some, she yelled: “what, do you think these marshmallows grow on trees?” Comically, she held a faux stern expression while handing them out. I know I am likely preaching to the choir but Dongara is quite the day trip. Heading down Brand Highway first thing on Sunday morning was blissful. We admired the hay bales and the unseasonably moody landscape, and we even saw Geraldton MP Ian Blayney stoically hammering in election signs along the highway in the pouring rain. Seaspray Cafe is attached to a caravan park of the same name with the motto: “Live, laugh, love the Seaspray way”. I wondered if I could accomplish all three in one morning. Despite being in sleepy Dongara, it felt like a bustling inner-city cafe. It would be impossible to fit another table in the space, and I had to suck in my brunch-filled tummy to manoeuvre around people, chairs and plants — so many plants. I’d guess we weren’t the only people who travelled for the food. First, we ordered two cappuccinos — a soy and a regular — and they came in gorgeous little speckled ceramic cups. The coffee was clean, creamy and just the right temperature. Next, we ordered our meals. I had the vegetarian beans with legumes, capsicum, fresh herbs, garlic, fetta and spinach, swapping the poached eggs for halloumi. The dish came with two delicious pieces of crunchy bread and a healthy serving of butter. The authentic mix of Mediterranean flavours tasted homemade. But despite this familiar feeling, several parts of the dish reminded me a seasoned restaurateur had made my meal. The fancy cheese, fresh garlic and perfect flavour balance were a dead giveaway. I was a particular fan of how the capsicum added a touch of bitterness to the red sauce. My date ordered Chrissy’s breakfast special, named after Christina Zaharopoulos, the venue’s marshmallow-wielding owner. It came with two pieces of toast topped with a pumpkin, chorizo, spinach and halloumi scramble. He agreed the bread was a show-stopper, saying the sweet pumpkin balanced out the meaty parts of the dish. My date did say the chorizo wasn’t as good as the sausage my half-Italian dad makes with his uncles — but he has to say that. He wouldn’t dare jeopardise his supply of olives, green tomatoes, passata and dried meats. The meal was on the expensive side, costing $55 for the two of us. But that’s what it costs to go out for a solid brekkie in a nice venue that will leave you stuffed until lunch. We wouldn’t have Aussie cafe culture if it weren’t for the influence of Mediterranean food, and Seaspray Cafe makes sure we don’t forget it. This Dongara must-try puts on a thoughtful offering of vegetables, bread, olive oil and fresh herbs — garnished with a healthy portion of personality.