In the same time zone and only a five-hour flight from Perth, Singapore is the ideal place for a long-haul stopover or quick getaway. But with an abundance of history, culture, food and foliage, it’s worth lingering longer too.
Because of its proximity to the equator, the weather is pretty constant. No matter what time of year I check the forecast, it always seems to say between 30C and 32C with a chance of storms.
Most times this will mean a scattered shower or a short heavy downpour, and possibly a brief burst of thunder, but before too long it’ll be dry again.
I always pack an umbrella, but don’t always need it. From November to January are the wettest months (I have visited in November and January and haven’t found the rain a problem), and from February to September are the driest. I’ve been there in between those two, and can say I’d be happy to go any time of year.
Singapore Airlines flies from Perth to Singapore four times a day. My favourite departure time is the 6.40am flight, which gets you to the Lion City at 11.55am. After a quick luggage drop at the hotel you have the whole afternoon and evening to explore.
For a cheaper journey, the airline’s budget arm, Scoot Airlines, has two flights a day. In the summer months that’s one at 5.35am and one at 5.45pm. The times change from April onwards to 6.25pm and 9.55pm.
All travellers must have an SG Arrival Card to enter Singapore. Getting one is an easy process, and it’s free to apply. Submit your application within three days of the date of your arrival in Singapore by visiting ica.gov.sg or downloading the MyICA app. There are lots of automated lanes at immigration, so you will be through in a flash.
Changi Airport is one of the most efficient in the world. It’s a well-oiled machine and it’s not unusual for it to take less than 30 minutes between disembarkation, passing through immigration, collecting luggage and being in whichever mode of transport you are taking to your hotel. My record is 17 minutes.
Leaving the airport
There are well-organised taxi stands in the Arrival areas of all four terminals. A ride to the city takes about 30 minutes and costs between $S25 ($29) and $S45. All fares are metered, and there is an additional $S6 airport surcharge for all trips originating from the airport ($S8 between 5pm and 11.59pm). Midnight surcharges apply to taxi hires country-wide (50 per cent of the final metered fare from midnight to 5.59am), and 25 per cent of the final metered fare id added during peak hour (6am-9am Monday to Friday; 10am-1.59pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays; and 5pm-11.59pm Monday to Sunday).
But it’s very easy (and much cheaper) to catch an underground train (MRT) from the airport into the city. A single fare from the airport to the city centre costs $S2.40 and the journey will take about 45 minutes. You can tap on and off with whichever card you are using (I use a Wise card but your bank card will work if it’s a Visa or Mastercard debit or credit card).
Depending on where you are staying, you can either take the train to Tanah Merah station, then transfer to the East/West (Green) Line towards Tuas Link, or to Expo station, then transfer to the Downtown (Blue) Line towards Bukit Panjang. If your hotel is on any of the other lines, it’s easy to change from both lines for your onward journey. You can find an MRT map at lta.gov.sg under Getting Around/Public Transport.
Travelling by MRT
The MRT network is extensive, spotlessly clean, and efficient. There will often be several exits to the station — look for the exit plan on the wall, which will have most points of interest marked on it and will tell you the best exit to choose.
Eating out on a budget
Singapore restaurant prices are comparable with Perth prices, but it’s possible to eat out well on a budget. Hawker centres and shopping mall food courts are cheap and there are strict hygiene laws, so you don’t need to worry about the standard of cleanliness or the quality of food.
Many hawker stalls are cash only, so it’s worth having some Singapore dollars with you, but you will usually find ATMs in the hawker market centres to get cash from. Food courts accept card payments.
In both places, before you buy your food, find where you want to sit and put a packet of tissues on the table (a packet for each seat you want to reserve). Unbelievably, nobody will sit in that spot, and the seat will still be free when you get back. You don’t have to do this but it makes it easier than getting your food and wandering about with your tray trying to find a seat, especially if you are like my family and all order food from different stalls.
Shopping mall food courts are similar to hawker centres, but with air-conditioning! A personal favourite is The Food Place (by Food Nation) in Raffles City Mall. The food court is good for chicken rice, barbecue meats and noodles, and carrot cake, as well as Korean and Japanese food. Look out for Padang Padang, which sells good Malaysian sets (the beef rendang is delicious).
Local specialties
Roti canai You’ll find this in many hawker centres, but Little India is probably the best place to look. Crunchy, chewy roti bread, served with either mutton or fish curry gravy. You will also find stuffed versions, usually with egg and/or cheese, and sweet versions too.
Carrot cake Not carrot cake as we know it, this savoury dish is steamed radish cake cubes stir-fried with eggs and garlic served with chilli sauce. It comes as black (with added sweet dark soy sauce) or white. Both are delicious, so I ask if they will do half-and-half.
Hainanese chicken rice A classic Singaporean dish of poached chicken, rice cooked in chicken stock, and a bowl of ginger and pandan leaf-infused chicken broth, eaten with dark soy sauce, chilli sauce and ginger paste. Order a chicken rice set which means you will also get a plate of greens alongside it.
Laksa A spicy, fragrant, coconut-based soup, filled with rice noodles, prawns, fishcakes and tofu. Look out for katong laksa, which may also contain cockles and will have noodles which are chopped up, making it easier to eat with a spoon.
Char kway teow Spicy, smoky, packed with umami and a touch of sweetness, these stir-fried flat rice noodles with dark soy sauce, Chinese sausage, prawns, bean sprouts and egg are a Singapore staple.
Wanton Mee egg noodles Served with wonton dumplings, char siu (barbecued pork) and greens, with a sweet or spicy sauce, either with a bowl of chicken broth on the side or with the dumplings already in it.
Chilli crab Be prepared to get messy with this mud crab dish which is covered in a rich tomato and chilli sauce, with fried mantou bread buns on the side to mop up the leftovers.
Where to stay
There are many good areas to stay in the city. If pushed, I’d say City Hall is the most convenient. It’s easy to reach on the Green Line from the airport, and within walking distance of many of the city’s attractions. My most recent stay was in Tanjong Pagar, also on the Green Line, and I found it was an excellent location. It’s a pleasant walk to the city’s riverfront attractions, as well as very close to many hawker centres. But you can’t go wrong if you look at Orchard Road, Marina Bay, Bugis, Clarke and Robertson quays, or Chinatown.
When I’m on holiday, I want to stay somewhere that’s, at the very least, as nice as my home, and so the hotels I recommend are four-star and above. I always like to have a pool because my mornings are spent exploring, and after a decent dose of the city’s humidity, I like somewhere to cool down in the afternoons.
I usually expect to pay at least $400 per night. However, my daughter has just spent two nights in a hostel in Chinatown, which she reported was clean, modern and quite spacious … and it only cost her $S50 a night. If you are looking for something in between these two, Mercure, Holiday Inn, Ibis and Far East Hospitality are good brands to start with. I narrow down my search by using Booking.com but book directly with the hotel as I find that usually works out cheaper.
CITY HALL
Where to stay Grand Park City Hall, Swissotel The Stamford, Pullman Hill Street, lyf Funan.
MRT City Hall (Green/Red lines).
Convenience Raffles City Mall, Fort Canning Park, Peranakan Museum, National Gallery Singapore, St Andrew’s Cathedral, Asian Civilisations Museum, Raffles Hotel.
Pretty as a picture Old Hill Street Police Station, Fort Canning Tree Tunnel, CHIJMES.
Walk to Clark Quay and Civic District (easily) or, if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, Chinatown.
Peranakan Museum Gives insight into Singapore’s Peranakan culture, and with a pretty exterior too. Guided tours (subject to availability) are free with the admission price. These are led by volunteers and take about 45 minutes to an hour. It’s not a huge museum so if you do the tour and then wander about yourself, you will cover it in less than two hours. Admission price: $S18 for adults, concession $S12, and free for children under six. Guided tours at 11am and 2.30pm Monday to Friday, and 11am, 2pm and 3pm Saturdays and Sundays.
Fort Canning A lovely large green space, and home to the viral Tree Tunnel which makes a cool picture, but due to the tunnel’s high profile it’s also ridiculously busy these days. If you get there very early in the morning you might get it to yourself, but don’t count on it! The park’s trails are nice for a morning walk when it’s cooler. You’ll also find an underground WWII tunnel complex, spice garden and the Fort Canning Heritage Gallery which traces more than 700 years of history of the Fort Canning Hill. Enter the park from Hill Street, just before the Old Hill Street Police Station.
Asian Civilisations Museum Containing 13 permanent galleries, over an area of 3923sqm, the museum highlights the connections between Asian cultures and the rest of the world, with exhibits focusing on trade and the maritime silk routes, faith and belief, and materials and design. One of the most impressive exhibits is the Tang Shipwreck in the Trade and Maritime Silk Routes galleries on level one. There are also beautiful examples of South-East Asian jewellery on level three. There are free guided tours here too, but I prefer to wander about myself as there is so much to see.
Fullerton Hotel After coming out of the museum, cross the river (either by the Cavanagh or Anderson bridges) and you will be at the Fullerton Hotel. Full of old-world charm, the former General Post Office was built in 1928 and housed the longest post office counter in the world. The 90m counter has been preserved and is now incorporated into one of the hotel’s bars. As well as serving exquisite afternoon teas, the lobby has an interesting exhibit detailing the building’s history.
CapitaSpring Less than a 10-minute walk from the Fullerton Hotel, this skyscraper houses the Sky Garden giving views over the city from the 51st floor. Tickets are free, but book well in advance as it’s popular. If you secure a booking at any of the building’s bars and restaurants (Sol & Luna, Kaarla, Oumi or 1-Arden) you will also be able to visit the Sky Garden.
On floors two and three you will find Market Street Hawker Centre. With 56 stalls you are spoilt for choice. It gets busy with office workers at lunchtime, so go slightly off-peak — no matter how busy it is, you should still find a table (remember the tissue trick when you find a space).
Raffles This well-known hotel is a 10-minute walk from City Hall MRT. If, like me, you can’t afford to stay here, instead visit the Tiffin Room for delicious food and an opportunity to enter the beautiful colonial building via the red carpet and be welcomed by the legendary Sikh doormen. The Mera Dabba Experience set tiffin menu is $S102 ($S86 vegetarian) and well worth the money, both for the flavour and the luxurious experience. You might have to queue to get into the Long Bar, but can you come to Singapore and not have a Raffles Singapore Sling? The Sling price is eye-watering but you do get unlimited monkey nuts, which you are allowed to peel and throw the shells on the floor (don’t worry, it’s a thing!)
TANJONG PAGAR / CHINATOWN
Where to stay Sofitel Singapore City Centre, Oasia Downtown, Mondrian Singapore Duxton, Parkroyal Collection Pickering.
MRT Tanjong Pagar (Green Line), Chinatown (Blue/Purple Lines), Telok Ayer (Green Line), Maxwell (Brown Line).
Convenience Chinese Heritage Centre, Yip Yew Chong mural trail, Chinatown Street Market, many hawker centres.
Pretty as a picture Colourful shophouses, Sri Mariamman Temple, Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.
Walk to Collyer Quay for Cliffton Pier and views of Marina Bay, Boat Quay for easy access to the Civic District.
Street Market Chinatown is good just to wander around, soaking up the atmosphere and admiring its colourful restored shophouse exteriors. The vibrant street market features stalls selling traditional clothing, handicrafts, tech gadgets, homewares, fruit and veg, and souvenirs.
Wall art This area has some wonderful murals, many by local artist Yip Yew Chong who paints detailed scenes featuring old Singaporean life and culture. The detail in his Thian Hock Keng Temple mural on Telok Ayer Street is incredible. YC also has work in Kampong Glam, Tiong Bahru and Sentosa Island.
Chinese Heritage Centre It may look tiny from the outside but this museum is surprisingly big and interesting inside. Three beautifully restored shophouses over three floors tell the story of the culture and community that built this historic district. It features the original shophouse interiors and gives insight into Chinatown’s early residents.
Hawker Centres Chinatown is an embarrassment of riches when it comes to hawker centres. You can’t go wrong with any of these, but Maxwell is my favourite, and locals always recommend it. If you are staying outside the area, there’s an MRT right next to it (called Maxwell) so if you wander through Chinatown and end up here, it’s easy to jump on the train back to your hotel.
Amoy Street is another good one. En route, meander through Ann Siang Hill, where you will find beautiful examples of preserved shophouses and vibrant street art.
Chinatown Food Complex is the largest in Singapore, and with more than 260 stalls, you won’t go hungry here. Lau Pa Sat is one of the most famous (it featured in the book Crazy Rich Asians, however the Newton Food Centre, near Orchard Road, was actually used as the filming location).
I find both Chinatown Food Complex and Lau Pa Sat overwhelming, with too many stalls to choose from, so I always stick to the smaller centres. On my last visit I ate very good chicken rice at Tanjong Pagar Plaza. Sadly, I missed out on Rolina’s highly recommended sardine puff as they had just sold out — I’ll be back!
BUGIS
Where to stay Frasers House (formerly the InterContinental Singapore), Andaz Singapore by Hyatt, Parkroyal on Beach Road.
MRT Bugis (Green/Blue Lines).
Convenience Kampong Glam and Civic District (easy walk), Little India (quick MRT ride away).
Pretty as a picture Sultan Mosque, Haji Lane, Duo Galleria.
Walk to National Museum of Singapore, Raffles Hotel, CHIJMES, City Hall, Suntec City Mall.
I use the term Bugis to cover this area plus Kampong Glam, as I have stayed in hotels in Bugis but not Kampong Glam, but one flows into the other.
Picture-perfect The areas around the gold-domed Sultan Mosque, Muscat Street, Bussorah Street and Haji Lane are picturesque — you will find nice examples of preserved shophouses and fantastic street art. Look out for Yip Yew Chong’s History of Kampong Gelam outside a cafe called Tarik on Muscat Street which faces the mosque. Iced teh tarik from Tarik is a must-have each time I visit Singapore. The cafe also sells good little snacks that can be eaten outside sitting on stools facing the mosque, which is lovely at breakfast time before the temperature heats up.
Night and day I like Kampong Glam first thing in the morning. It’s a bit cooler for wandering around and, because it is a bit of an Insta favourite, the area gets busy with tourists later in the day. It’s also worth visiting for dinner as there are very good Malay, Turkish and Middle Eastern restaurants here.
The friendly staff at Anatolia Restaurant on Arab Street serve tasty food in very generous portions. However, it doesn’t have as nice an outlook as Ayasofya Turkish Restaurant on Bussorah Street, which gets good reviews and has views of the mosque opposite.
Nearby Atlas Bar has a cool vibe. The art deco interior is decadent, as is its lobster roll. I’ve had good reports about afternoon tea, but tables book out fast so reserve well in advance. You can do a walk-in for a drink at the bar, and the massive gin menu is impressive.
CHIJMES In the Civic District, but a 15-minute walk from Bugis, it was once the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus (hence the present-day acronym), the church was founded in 1854 and housed the oldest girls’ school in Singapore. In 1856 an orphanage was added as many infants were left at its gate each year. It was known as the Gate of Hope. The neo-classical gothic-style chapel was completed in 1903 with a striking spire, decorative flying buttresses and beautiful stained-glass windows. The complex is now used as an entertainment precinct and features many cafes and restaurants. Both Caldwell House and the chapel (now known as CHIJMES Hall) have been recognised as national monuments, so do go and enjoy the very picturesque and well-preserved terrazzo floors, elegant Corinthian columns, stunning archways, and twining staircases.
ORCHARD ROAD
Where to stay Jen Shangri-La, Shangri-La Singapore, Hilton Singapore Orchard.
MRT: Orchard, Sommerset, Dhoby Ghaut.
Convenience Singapore Botanic Gardens, National Museum of Singapore, shopping.
Pretty as a picture Emerald Hill, National Orchid Garden, Istana Park.
Walk to Countless shopping malls.
Trifecta An opportunity to enjoy snow and surf in an urban setting. Skiers and snowboarders ride on a “ski carpet” designed to mimic the feel of snow, which is dampened with water to reduce friction. Surfers use real surfboards to ride waves 60cm deep and up to 1.5m high in a covered but open-air surf pool.
National Museum of Singapore Dive into Singapore’s past, from a humble trading post to a vibrant global city. The museum does interactive displays really well, and its new Singapore Odyssea: A Journey Through Time exhibit is sure to delight. All-access entrance costs $S36, concessions are $S28, and entry for children under six is free. Even if you don’t enter the museum, do check out its Neo-Palladian exterior architecture — it’s magnificent. You will find one of Fort Canning Park’s many entrances off Canning Rise, just behind the museum, if you want to seek a quiet green space post-visit.
Singapore Botanic Gardens The Botanic Gardens contains many gardens within one big tropical green space. With its fascinating sculptures, Rainforest Trail, Ginger Garden, Evolution Garden, Ethnobotany Garden, Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden, not to mention the wonderful National Orchid Garden, you could easily spend the day here.
Eat well Have breakfast at the original Killiney Kopitiam (67 Killiney Road). It’s small and hot, but it’s authentic. The coffee shop was established in 1919, serving freshly brewed Nanyang coffee, charcoal-grilled toast and hand-crafted kaya. Be sure to order the kaya toast set, and don’t be put off by the very runny egg. Stir in some soy sauce and white pepper, then dip in the kaya toast. It tastes much better than it sounds. The chee cheong fun, chicken curry and roti prata are very good too. For lunch I’m going to Food Republic at Wisma Atria shopping mall. I’ll plan not to order chicken rice, but I’ll never resist. However, a dinner of chicken rice at Chatterbox within the Hilton Singapore Orchard hotel is one of the city’s best (admittedly more expensive than a hawker dish, but still not too pricey for a five-star hotel). If I’m all chickened out, I’ll happily order the lobster laksa.
Where else?
LITTLE INDIA
Head to Tekka Centre for a great Indian hawker breakfast, especially roti canai. Of course, lunch would be a good option too. There’s good street art and colourful heritage buildings in Little India. Shops sell beautiful fresh flower garlands, which scent the air as you pass. It’s probably one of the least shiny parts of Singapore but it does have its charm. The Indian Heritage Centre, which traces the history of Indian and South Asian communities in the South-East Asian region, is still on my museum to-do list. All other museums I’ve visited in Singapore have been excellent, so I’d say it’s a safe bet.
GARDENS BY THE BAY
Gardens by the Bay is definitely worth visiting. The Flower Dome holds the Guinness World Record for the largest glass greenhouse, and contains flowers and plants from five continents. The Cloud Forest houses one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls, and its 23C temperature gives a lovely reprieve from the outdoor humidity. A winding pathway takes you around a mountain covered in plants that thrive in the tropical highland regions of South-East Asia, Tropical America, and Africa. Another impressive sight is Supertree Grove. Head up to the OCBC Skyway for excellent views over the gardens. The Grove’s free lightshow at 7.45pm and 8.45pm is fun. Just be prepared for the crowds. And stay awhile afterwards, as everyone leaving at the same time gets a bit hectic.
RIVER CRUISE & VIEWS
The river cruise is one of my favourite things to do in Singapore. Catch a boat from the WaterB River Cruise kiosks in Clark Quay, Merlion Park or Bayfront North. There’s interesting commentary on the way, it’s lovely to see the city from a different angle, and you can enjoy the breeze as you sail down the river. The 40-minute cruise costs $S28: waterb.com.sg
Or take a stroll along the river. Start at the bottom of North Bridge Road and head towards the Fullerton Hotel. There are underpasses with some good wall art along the way, and you will also pass some lovely sculptures and buildings. Walk up and over to Esplanade Drive where you will end up at the Merlion statue for good views toward the Marina Bay Sands hotel and ArtScience Museum. Continue on round Collyer Quay, where you will find the historic Clifford Pier building, the former landing point of Singapore’s forefathers.
CRUISES
+ Cruise options leaving from Singapore range from quick getaways to extensive regional explorations.
+ Short South-East Asia Getaways (3-5 nights): These itineraries often visit popular ports like Penang, Phuket, and Langkawi.
+ Extended South-East Asia Voyages (11-14 nights): Longer journeys can include a wider range of destinations in Vietnam, Cambodia, Hong Kong, and Bali.
EVENTS
+ Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix The world’s first night race is scheduled for October 9–11 at the Marina Bay Street Circuit.
+ Light to Night Singapore Having celebrated its 10th edition last month (January 2026), we expect this light and art festival to shine again over four weekends in January 2027.
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