Rest your head amidst the paddy fields

Among the four million people who visited the Malaysian island of Penang in 2025, very few dared or cared to leave its little capital, George Town.

So what if I told you that only 50km south of Penang Island, on the northernmost fringe of the neighbouring Perak state, there’s a little place that could really make your trip feel different from crowds, cookie-cutter cafes and traffic jams?

But Kuala Kurau is a small, slow and incredibly authentic Malaysian town slung on the two bends of the Kurau River’s estuary. This stretch of the northwestern coast of Perak is a notorious stop along the avian migration flyway between Asia, Australia and the Americas. The lush paddy fields that surround the town testify to this hub of bird activity.

Would I convince you to go if I told you that you could see them all by booking a stay at Kurau Inn Farmstay, one of the best accommodation options in Kuala Kurau?

Set in the countryside just a few hundred metres north of Jalan Pantai, the town’s main thoroughfare, Kurau Inn Farmstay is a Malay home set next to hectares of vast open paddy fields.

When we visited, in December, they were like a shimmering sea of green populated by a staggering amount of bird life. Egrets, storks, kingfishers, you name it: just sit on Kurau Inn Farmstay’s delightful wooden deck overlooking the paddies at the back of the property.

Pick sunrise or sunset, for you won’t be disappointed at either time.

“I am planning to build a small swimming pool to allow guests to really enjoy these rice fields differently, and I’d also like to bring in a little boat to paddle around them,” says Rabain Hassan.

Rabain is the Kuala Kurau native who transformed an old structure dedicated to bird nests farming into a beautiful Malay-style countryside home with a range of large, comfortable rooms flanked by fruit trees, palms and hemmed by rice fields.

He and his wife Laila have lived in New Zealand and can speak both English and Malay. They are always happy to have a friendly chat and recommend the best things to see and do in Kuala Kurau — and of course, can help organise excursions and boat trips both on the Kurau River, which is known to have crocodiles to spot, and the nearby Kuala Gula Bird Sanctuary.

Rabain wanted to create a Malaysian Agriturismo (an Italian farmstay) concept where you won’t find horses trotting and cattle grazing, but a nicely arranged Malay home with a backyard garden and a small swimming pool to soak in during the hottest days.

You may pluck a fresh mango straight from the tree, or collect fresh pegaga leaves from the garden, and make your own cooling drink with a dash of local calamansi.

The tables of their open kitchen set at the back of the garden are also perfect to have breakfast amidst greenery and learn about Malay recipes — or have some of Kuala Kurau’s cheap countryside durians, if you love this spiky, foul-smelling Southeast Asian fruit.

The rooms are all large and designed to accommodate more than two people — ours, for example, had two double beds with very high-standard mattresses, a mezzanine with another one, and a beautiful veranda overlooking palm canopies and soothing greenery. Here’s your perfect spot for a family or group getaway.

And if you want something more special, then opt for the garden Rumah Kayu (a traditional Malay wooden house) that works perfectly as a special room for a romantic getaway or a perfect set-up for your travel photography.

If you are looking for a secluded accommodation offering mid-range facilities and spacious, home-like rooms, then look no further than Kurau Inn Farmstay. The location is exceptionally scenic and quiet, offering guests a genuine insight into the daily life of Kuala Kurau’s Malay community.

The only downside is that if you are on foot, the place is not too close to Kuala Kurau’s town centre — but if you don’t mind walking 10 to 15 minutes, then this should be no issue — and they have bicycles for rent if you wish to explore further.