Ria Ayam Penyet review: April Ooi visits popular Indonesian restaurant in Victoria Park for penyet, bakso

Ria Ayam Penyet is not your average Indonesian chain restaurant. When it expanded into Australia, it never toned flavours down for the Western palate. We got a completely authentic experience: the chilli burns, the chicken crackles, and flavour combos that take you straight to a roadside food stall in Indonesia. The business has recently opened a second restaurant in Kardinya but given how Perth diners really like to blow up places in their first weeks, I decided to dine at their original Vic Park eatery instead. The restaurant was still heaving late into the Saturday afternoon but we managed to nab seats on a big communal table. We didn’t mind the seating plan as long as we could stuff our gobs as soon as possible. We quickly ordered at the counter and didn’t miss out on helping ourselves to a packet of martabak ($10) on the counter. It’s very “Indonesian” to have a selection of snacks you can buy to take home or enjoy while you wait. The martabak was a squidgy pancake filled with peanuts and choc sprinkles — very satisfying. We also enjoyed the iced Milo ($5.50) which was super chocolatey and sweetened with condensed milk. In Asia, Milo tastes closer to chocolate milk than the breakfast drink. The iced cendol ($6.90) was nice to drink too, but the little green pandan-flavoured jellies inside were a tad too mushy for my liking. Penyet means to smash, and while originally served with a pummelled chicken smothered in spice, at Ria Ayam Penyet they have a range of different protein options. I went with the iga penyet with rice ($22.80), which is fried beef spare ribs served with sambal, fried tofu, tempeh and a little bit of salad. Some pieces were on the drier side, but the sambal saved it. There are vegetarian options too. My brother loved the terong penyet with rice ($16.80). It came with eggplant that was fried till it was irresistibly gooey, but extra crunchy on the outside. Our noodle dish of choice was the bakso ($15.90) — Indonesian-style wontons, meatballs and tofu skin plus extra-thin rice noodles that provide big satisfying mouthfuls. The soto ayam ($13), meanwhile, is a rich chicken noodle soup. The shredded chicken on top was salty but addictive. Ria Ayam Penyet is as strong as they come. From Batam to Perth, the recipes haven’t been softened or sweetened. It’s no wonder the brand has built a cult following across South East Asia — and now in Perth too. Ria Ayam Penyet 417 Albany Highway, Victoria Park OPEN Monday to Sunday, 11am-9pm CONTACT 6507 3901 victoriapark.ria98.com.au BOOKINGS No THE VERDICT Fiery, fragrant Indonesian fare with a well-deserved cult following. 17/20