Finlay’s Kalbarri review: Iceworks-turned ramshackle seafood restaurant is a WA regional legend

Things to do in Denver, I mean, Kalbarri when you’re dead, sorry, there. Apologies for referring to the Warren Zevon song — or is it the 1995 crime film starring Andy Garcia? — but writing these intros week after week doesn’t get any easier. Anyway, for those still reading, here are six things to do in Kalbarri before you die. One: Check out the incredible gorges from the Skywalk. If that’s where Royalties for Regions money went, then I reckon it’s well spent. Two: Feed the pelicans. Fish. Feed the pelicans fish, not small, inquisitive children. Three: Go for a swim or snorkel at Blue Holes beach. See seafood au naturel. Four: Grab a pie from the Red Bluff Bakery Cafe. The jalapeno and cheese meat pie blew my socks off, then the Thai green chicken pie put them back on and blew them off again. Rottnest Bakery, you’ve been served. Five: Load up on fish and chips from Kalbarri Fish & Chips. The crumbed Abrolhos scallops were so good my daughter now eats them and I need a bank loan. Six: Wash down a(nother) seafood feed at Finlay’s with a schooner or three of their delicious, on-point and award-winning beers. The Jakes Point IPA is top-notch, but the Shipwrecked Pale Ale and Murchison Hazy Pale are also near-perfect with the fresh tucker dished up at this institution. Finlay’s is a very well-known venue in Kalbarri. The giant shed was home to the town’s iceworks before Harry, Garry and Cecilia Finlay took over and rechristened it Gantheaume Bay Fisheries. At its peak, the business produced 400 tonnes of fish each year, with 85 per cent airfreighted to Japan and around Australia. The 1989 pilots’ strike — one of the most dramatic, and expensive, industrial disputes in our history — meant the Finlays were stuck with a lot of snapper. Rather than let it sit on ice indefinitely, or rot, the family pivoted and opened Finlays Fresh Fish BBQ. The mountain came to Muhammad and a local legend was born. Since 2018, Melissa and Warrick Finlay — no relation — have owned and run the rustic restaurant and microbrewery now known as Finlay’s Kalbarri. A short stroll from the main drag, this K-Bazza institution is seriously laid-back. Tables are outside, on a dirt floor and under gum trees and rusted-up signs. When we dropped in for a feed, the Sunday session was in full swing. Mums and dads sipped Finlay Brewing Co’s craft beers or one of 12 wines by the glass. Kids and dogs. Dogs and kids. Everywhere. Seafood smells wafted through the overgrown man cave, causing blue heelers to sniff the air. A bloke strummed away on a guitar, warbling a Jimmy Buffett chestnut on a low stage against the small stone building housing the dunnies. Not so much wastin’ away again in Margaritaville as chillin’ in Kalbarri. As our kids made fast friends in the play area, my wife and I tucked into a large bowl of Shark Bay cockles drowning in creamy, garlic sauce ($26). It’s a dish I’d more likely tackle in regional France rather than regional WA, but the strong garlic and seafood aromas and flavours were superb. As was the huge, charred Abrolhos octopus tentacle that came with a token salad ($25). We eschewed the natural oysters from South Australia and Tasmania, as well as the Western Rock Lobster sold for a flat price of $90. The tacos of the day, three soft tacos loaded with crimson snapper, onion, red cabbage, salsa and chipotle mayo ($39), hit the spot alongside a bowl of fresh Exmouth prawns ($23). The grilled Shark Bay Robinson bream ($34) was fairly basic — the unseasoned white fish was dry but agreeable with a crisp, cold pale ale. The kids split a burger — one of a handful of options on the menu for the nippers. If you haven’t twigged yet, Finlay’s is all about fresh, local seafood. But the ramshackle joint, run with understated efficiency but exuberant friendliness by head chef/venue manager Dan Nielsen, is also about the vibe. Nielsen informed us both clientele and staffing levels were such that Finlay’s would open seven days a week — a boon for regional tourists, whose travel plans aren’t always in sync with the somewhat whimsical operating hours of local businesses. Also worth noting is that not everything on the menu was available, including a few desserts. It’s a case of first in, best dressed — a reality of regional dining. If this holiday mecca was in Hawaii or somewhere in the Caribbean, it would be legendary. Jimmy Buffett would sing its praises and there would be overpriced T-shirts, stubby holders and keyrings forged in its honour. (There are souvenirs, down the back next to the cold tank holding crays.) If you believe in chaos theory, then thank the Australian Federation of Air Pilots and canny Garry Finlay, who refused to allow good fish to go wastin’ away in his Mid West paradise. Seven: Go back to Finlay’s. We dropped by again on our last day for a schooner of Kalbarri’s finest and a snack of panko-crumbed prawns with mango salsa. Magic, just like the coastal town itself. Finlay’s Kalbarri 13 Magee Crescent, Kalbarri OPEN Daily, midday-10pm. CONTACT 9937 1253, finlayskalbarri.com.au BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT The best seafood feed in Kalbarri at the place pouring the best beer in town. Finlay’s is a no-brainer. Stick with local fish, check the specials board, grab a pale ale or an IPA, and slide into holiday mode. You’ve earned it. 14/20