Endeavour Tavern review: Simon Collins road-tests Lancelin pub claiming to have WA’s best beer garden

Where is WA’s best beer garden? Is it Hotel Rottnest, with beach views back to the mainland? Or is it the sprawling Matso’s yard around Captain Gregory’s old residence in Broome? Or perhaps the Augusta Hotel, perched above the Hardy Inlet looking over Flinders Bay? Maybe Wild Hop brewery next to a dam among the tall timbers of Yallingup? Or is it the lawn out the back of the Endeavour Tavern in Lancelin, with its panoramic vista of Lancelin and Edwards Islands in the bay? The owners of the Endeavour certainly think so, spruiking the pub built in the 1970s using timber from the old Narrogin flourmill as having “WA’s Best Beer Garden”. While I’d suggest WA’s best beer garden is any I find myself in, chilling with a cold beverage and few worries, I’m not going to argue. The Endeavour did itself no harm whatsoever on a recent Wednesday evening, putting on a gobsmacking sunset and the sort of vibes that prompt boomer dads to wonder what the poor people are up to. If I’m honest, our recent family sojourn to Lancelin wasn’t so much about sandboarding down dunes or hanging out with the kids at the local caravan park as a session at the pub formerly known as the Lancelin Beach Hotel. “God is great, beer is good,” American country star Billy Currington crooned as we wandered into the brick and timber pub that looks like it was manfully constructed by actor and woodwork enthusiast Nick Offerman. It feels like the kind of saloon where the pianist stops playing when you enter but there were no rowdy bar fights, just kids, dogs and chilled-out parents, plus unpretentious beers on tap, a very decent wine list and a menu designed to satiate the entire Lancelin Ledge Point Pirates Football Club. In fact, the Wednesday night mixed grill wasn’t your usual platter of lamb chops and chipolatas but rather a large scotch fillet topped with half a crayfish, plus a decent side salad and loads of chips for $70. Thank you very much. Buying a round of drinks, I couldn’t help but laugh when another dad paid $46 for his libations and informed his daughter that used to be enough for a whole night out. “A big night out,” he added, giving me a knowing wink, “plus a kebab and taxi home.” True that, but with nicely priced drinks and dishes, the Endeavour definitely fits within the caravan park budget. Before we get to the steak and cray, or the rare and snare, we got a couple of starters — the salt and pepper squid ($16) and chicken wings ($18). While the little chunks of fried squid hit the pass somehow already cold, the sizeable chicken wings in hot, vinegary buffalo sauce were a spicy winner. Served with a good coleslaw plus tangy ranch dipping sauce, these were apparently an appetiser but easily enough for a solo meal. The kids shared the battered fish and chips ($30). On the night we dined at the Endeavour, the fish was a beautiful red spot emperor done in a light and crispy batter. Impressive. The scotch fillet was large, probably at least 400g, and came with a decent sized cray. We got pepper sauce, which was bang-on with whole green peppercorns, and a garlic sauce that was, predictably, far too creamy. The steak was spot-on rare but could’ve used a little extra char. Still, it was delicious, while the juicy cray was also ideally presented in a simple garlic butter sauce. The salad of corn kernels, onion, rocket and tomato was better than the token greenery squeezed onto the plate as an afterthought at many pubs. We added the side of grilled prawns for $16, which weren’t great but completed our dream of sharing a surf, turf and surf main. The Endeavour’s menu features four burgers, including a veggie option, steak sandwich, pizzas, nachos and a decent range of seafood. We didn’t have room for dessert, but the choice of chocolate lava pudding, sticky date pudding or packaged ice cream didn’t inspire us to further indulge. A couple of wines, a big feed, a gorgeous sunset and hokey Nashville country tunes added up to a very enjoyable evening. That said, can the Endeavour Tavern rightly boast to having WA’s best beer garden? I think the only way to know for sure is to return a few more times. Endeavour Tavern 58 Gingin Road, Lancelin WA 6044 OPEN Monday-Sunday, 11am-late. CONTACT 08 9655 1052, endeavourtavern.com.au BOOKINGS No THE VERDICT One of WA’s best beer gardens. Sweeping views over Lancelin Bay. Kid and dog-friendly menu of pub grub plus good seafood. Surprisingly solid wine list. Ripper pub. 14/20